23rd to 30th of Nov - Penang, Medan/Sumatra, Berastagi, Tuk Tuk
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23rd of November – KL to Penang, 530km...The harder tour
Because the last time I came down the highway from Penang to KL I decided in the morning to take the No. 8 up towards Kotha Baru. I knew it would be a detour of approx. 150km. So I passed by Genting Highlands where I had been a couple days before…by the way, crazy place up there, actually the only casino in Malaysia because gambling is not allowed. One of the hotels up there has 5.000 rooms. Can you imagine? When I rode a couple of days ago the serpentines up to Genting Highlands I thought there would be a couple of restaurants, a parking lot and a viewpoint. But then one arrives in Mega City on the top of the mountain with amusement park, roller coasters, gambling halls, casino, hotels and thousands of people...
Ok, back to my tour to Penang. When I had to go through Bentong it dawned on me that this would be a long, long day. Gua Musang was mentioned on a sign with 225km which I thought should be only a 150km. And from there still I would have to go westwards to Ipoh… But turn and go back to the highway: no. Somewhere 40km after Kuala Lipis I saw a sign to Cameron Highlands, the tea plantation area and I stopped right at that corner.
I had a coffee in a very local Malay restaurant while two head scarfed women were baking bananas and some dough stuff in oil; I took some of those things …yummy. I asked the cashier (also a woman) if I could cross the mountains and go from Cameron Highlands to Ipoh: yes. My Navi and my map did not indicate a road at all.
When I was about to leave the muezzin started and the rain as well and it got worse (the rain:-). Actually there was no Masjid close by and the voice came out of a megaphone hanging between the shops and the restaurant. They know how to reach their sheep:-) The first crossing I went wrong and a friendly lorry driver which I overtook before saw me stopping, so he stopped as well and told me where to go. The second crossing the same, the signs did not mention Cameron Highlands anymore. While I kept going suddenly my visor turned up in the heavy wind and nearly flew off my helmet. Wow, what was that? In heavy rain I stopped at a petrol station and found one screw missing on the helmet (hee, I said helmet!)
I unpacked my things and I found the set of screws for my motorbike which Heli back in Dachau packed for me before I left and one of those was a perfect fit. Thank you Heli, that’s the second time you saved me!
Rain, rain, rain….I didn’t see much of the nature but at least I saw the jungle with huge trees left and right of the road winding up through the mountains. Cameron Highlands itself is not beautiful because all the tea plants are covered with plastic constructions. All commercialized greenhouse style plantations. But the reward was the road down to Tapah which is made for motor bikers.
Late in the evening I arrived in Penang.
The next day I met the shipping agent, Mr. Lim a very friendly person. He arranged all papers and we went with the ferry to the Butterworth side, made the customs clearance and put my bike in the warehouse. The ship (?? he told me it is a 30m long wooden vessel transporting vegetables:-)…and they must have high season now because currently Thailand cannot support on veggies that much) would arrive a day later and loading would be done on Saturday morning only. The next day Mr. Lim wanted to go with his family to – guess what – Genting Highlands. Now it is school holiday in Malaysia and all hotel prices are marked up by at least 60%...time for me to leave.
That was also the day when I heard from Fernando that he had a serious motorbike crash on Sumatra. This is exactly what I am afraid of through my entire trip…I cross my fingers. Today I heard that meanwhile he went with a rented truck to Jakarta to get his bike fixed and also to cure himself.
I took a flight on Saturday which was in the end delayed…wow, how can be flight delayed on such small airports and with a flight time of 45min…but ok, that’s too German, right?
Indonesia IS different. Coming out of the arrival hall and one steps into another world (again)…traffic, dust, noise and honking everywhere. Driving w/o honking seems to be impossible. And I take the warning and advice from Fernando seriously.
Poverty on the street, not many foreigners here, English gets rare here compared to Malaysia (but in that sense Malaysia is in perfect shape…I do hope for this country that it can proceed in this moderate mode, the co-existence of Islam and other religions but also the openness to its neighbors and also to foreigners with or w/o investments. This seems to me a walk on the ridge for the Malaysian government).
Back to Indonesia: The people are up to now very friendly however quite frequently they will yell at you “hello mister”, “where do you come from”…this is another kind of openness…
I didn’t know anything about Medan and the hotel staff sent me to the Tip Top restaurant (who invented this gorgeous name:-) which was a good choice. Local food, local people/ families and a band which performed New Orleans style, Latin and country music with their guitars, drums and their nice voices… no microphone, no amplifier. That is art and performance. While the band performed well two kids stood beside me grinning at me and making their fun with me…they were quite fascinated about myself…are they the monkeys or is it myself here? :-)
Hopefully tomorrow I will get my bike in the seaport of Belawan…let’s see.
The taxi driver had to ask 5 times the way to that Indonesian agent. The process went smooth but it took its time. I anticipated this but I thought I could still make it to Berastagi. I couldn’t and I checked-in again. Wise as I was I left at least my luggage in the hotel..:-)
Another obstacle in "meeting my schedule" I faced because like in Thailand I was not allowed to use the tollway to Medan and I had to go through all these villages (actually there is no end) up to Medan. In Medan itself I knew already what kind of chaotic traffic awaited me. And my motorbike did the rest. The last day in Penang I had already trouble with the injection/throttle. When heated up and in slow motion the motor would go that slow that it would just stop…and this now in a never ending stop and go traffic jam.
Because I didn’t want to delay my travel to Indonesia another week (the boat leaves only once a week; if) I couldn’t fix the bike in Penang. The next KTM dealer is in Jakarta and that seems to be now a veeery long way.
Georgetown, Penang
...and the other side: Butterworth
House angel ceremonies on the 16th floor of the Bayview Hotel, Penang (if that thing falls down somebody else sees angels:-)
Medan, the only nice building I saw
My hangout for 2 days
the interior could be also in Spain
my favorite band
29th of November - Medan to Berastagi, 70km, 2 hours!
First you have to get out of that city through heavy traffic…and in the suburbs it is more or less the same: trucks, buses, minivans, cars one after another going up into the mountains. The people’s driving style reminds me of India…no rules and no fear. Without rules I can live but combined with the craziness of the people it is tough. Not really fun to drive here.
When I arrived in Berastagi I couldn’t really warm up with this nest in the beginning. Still on the motorbike I drove around, went up a narrow road to the Sibayak volcano and got a big shower up there. Useless to climb the volcano; couldn’t see anything. On the way back I took a room, packed my backpack and strolled down to the city. On the way I got 3 interviews by school children including picture taking. It seemed that their teacher sent them hunting tourists :-)
Each of those groups had a list of 10 questions to be answered. When the 4th group tried to catch me, I just said “no interview please” :-)
On 1300 meters it is a nice climate up here and the night will be chilly. The people are very friendly and mostly belong to the ethnic group of Karo. Joey Harlim (also Karo) whom I met in a small wooden shack restaurant told me about doctors from Europe coming here to learn about their bone healing competencies/ traditions.
not much to see on the Sibayak volcano
Berastagi has some cute places
aha, somewhere up there I had been
The Raymond Cafe where I met Joey...and the British guy. No other thing to explore in Berastagi.
And guess what: it rained again.
Joey wants to travel Europe with his wife by car in about 2 years.
30th of November - Berastagi to Lake Toba, Tuk Tuk, ~80km
Yep, Tuk Tuk is really the name of this nest on Samosir Island in the middle of the volcano crater Lake Toba.
Closer to the Lake Toba the landscape becomes really beautiful, nice forests/ jungle changing with coffee, tea, vegetable and cabbage plantations. Beautiful views on the Lake Toba. And somehow the landscape, buildings and people reminded me of a mix of South America, Mexico and Indian culture.
At the passengers ferry terminal in Prapat I met some nice guys and we made some fun + one of the guys picked his motorbike from home and guided me to the roll-on ferry terminal in the next bay.
Tuk Tuk is a quiet, beautiful tourist place but without many tourists now. The high season will come by end of December.
Closer to Lake Toba it gets cleaner and neat
The island Samosir in Lake Toba, a mega volcano crater
The fun guys...always seems there is not much to do. But they are happy people (at least the outer impression)
He picked his motorbike at home and brought me to the car ferry terminal
somehow the passenger ferry looks like a minivan..?!
they worked hard to get this bus on board
Tuk Tuk on Samosir is a sweet nest
Batak traditional Music & Dance in my hotel. Batak is the ethnic group which forms the population of Lake Toba.
Because the last time I came down the highway from Penang to KL I decided in the morning to take the No. 8 up towards Kotha Baru. I knew it would be a detour of approx. 150km. So I passed by Genting Highlands where I had been a couple days before…by the way, crazy place up there, actually the only casino in Malaysia because gambling is not allowed. One of the hotels up there has 5.000 rooms. Can you imagine? When I rode a couple of days ago the serpentines up to Genting Highlands I thought there would be a couple of restaurants, a parking lot and a viewpoint. But then one arrives in Mega City on the top of the mountain with amusement park, roller coasters, gambling halls, casino, hotels and thousands of people...
Ok, back to my tour to Penang. When I had to go through Bentong it dawned on me that this would be a long, long day. Gua Musang was mentioned on a sign with 225km which I thought should be only a 150km. And from there still I would have to go westwards to Ipoh… But turn and go back to the highway: no. Somewhere 40km after Kuala Lipis I saw a sign to Cameron Highlands, the tea plantation area and I stopped right at that corner.
I had a coffee in a very local Malay restaurant while two head scarfed women were baking bananas and some dough stuff in oil; I took some of those things …yummy. I asked the cashier (also a woman) if I could cross the mountains and go from Cameron Highlands to Ipoh: yes. My Navi and my map did not indicate a road at all.
When I was about to leave the muezzin started and the rain as well and it got worse (the rain:-). Actually there was no Masjid close by and the voice came out of a megaphone hanging between the shops and the restaurant. They know how to reach their sheep:-) The first crossing I went wrong and a friendly lorry driver which I overtook before saw me stopping, so he stopped as well and told me where to go. The second crossing the same, the signs did not mention Cameron Highlands anymore. While I kept going suddenly my visor turned up in the heavy wind and nearly flew off my helmet. Wow, what was that? In heavy rain I stopped at a petrol station and found one screw missing on the helmet (hee, I said helmet!)
I unpacked my things and I found the set of screws for my motorbike which Heli back in Dachau packed for me before I left and one of those was a perfect fit. Thank you Heli, that’s the second time you saved me!
Rain, rain, rain….I didn’t see much of the nature but at least I saw the jungle with huge trees left and right of the road winding up through the mountains. Cameron Highlands itself is not beautiful because all the tea plants are covered with plastic constructions. All commercialized greenhouse style plantations. But the reward was the road down to Tapah which is made for motor bikers.
Late in the evening I arrived in Penang.
The next day I met the shipping agent, Mr. Lim a very friendly person. He arranged all papers and we went with the ferry to the Butterworth side, made the customs clearance and put my bike in the warehouse. The ship (?? he told me it is a 30m long wooden vessel transporting vegetables:-)…and they must have high season now because currently Thailand cannot support on veggies that much) would arrive a day later and loading would be done on Saturday morning only. The next day Mr. Lim wanted to go with his family to – guess what – Genting Highlands. Now it is school holiday in Malaysia and all hotel prices are marked up by at least 60%...time for me to leave.
That was also the day when I heard from Fernando that he had a serious motorbike crash on Sumatra. This is exactly what I am afraid of through my entire trip…I cross my fingers. Today I heard that meanwhile he went with a rented truck to Jakarta to get his bike fixed and also to cure himself.
I took a flight on Saturday which was in the end delayed…wow, how can be flight delayed on such small airports and with a flight time of 45min…but ok, that’s too German, right?
Indonesia IS different. Coming out of the arrival hall and one steps into another world (again)…traffic, dust, noise and honking everywhere. Driving w/o honking seems to be impossible. And I take the warning and advice from Fernando seriously.
Poverty on the street, not many foreigners here, English gets rare here compared to Malaysia (but in that sense Malaysia is in perfect shape…I do hope for this country that it can proceed in this moderate mode, the co-existence of Islam and other religions but also the openness to its neighbors and also to foreigners with or w/o investments. This seems to me a walk on the ridge for the Malaysian government).
Back to Indonesia: The people are up to now very friendly however quite frequently they will yell at you “hello mister”, “where do you come from”…this is another kind of openness…
I didn’t know anything about Medan and the hotel staff sent me to the Tip Top restaurant (who invented this gorgeous name:-) which was a good choice. Local food, local people/ families and a band which performed New Orleans style, Latin and country music with their guitars, drums and their nice voices… no microphone, no amplifier. That is art and performance. While the band performed well two kids stood beside me grinning at me and making their fun with me…they were quite fascinated about myself…are they the monkeys or is it myself here? :-)
Hopefully tomorrow I will get my bike in the seaport of Belawan…let’s see.
The taxi driver had to ask 5 times the way to that Indonesian agent. The process went smooth but it took its time. I anticipated this but I thought I could still make it to Berastagi. I couldn’t and I checked-in again. Wise as I was I left at least my luggage in the hotel..:-)
Another obstacle in "meeting my schedule" I faced because like in Thailand I was not allowed to use the tollway to Medan and I had to go through all these villages (actually there is no end) up to Medan. In Medan itself I knew already what kind of chaotic traffic awaited me. And my motorbike did the rest. The last day in Penang I had already trouble with the injection/throttle. When heated up and in slow motion the motor would go that slow that it would just stop…and this now in a never ending stop and go traffic jam.
Because I didn’t want to delay my travel to Indonesia another week (the boat leaves only once a week; if) I couldn’t fix the bike in Penang. The next KTM dealer is in Jakarta and that seems to be now a veeery long way.
Georgetown, Penang
...and the other side: Butterworth
House angel ceremonies on the 16th floor of the Bayview Hotel, Penang (if that thing falls down somebody else sees angels:-)
Medan, the only nice building I saw
My hangout for 2 days
the interior could be also in Spain
my favorite band
29th of November - Medan to Berastagi, 70km, 2 hours!
First you have to get out of that city through heavy traffic…and in the suburbs it is more or less the same: trucks, buses, minivans, cars one after another going up into the mountains. The people’s driving style reminds me of India…no rules and no fear. Without rules I can live but combined with the craziness of the people it is tough. Not really fun to drive here.
When I arrived in Berastagi I couldn’t really warm up with this nest in the beginning. Still on the motorbike I drove around, went up a narrow road to the Sibayak volcano and got a big shower up there. Useless to climb the volcano; couldn’t see anything. On the way back I took a room, packed my backpack and strolled down to the city. On the way I got 3 interviews by school children including picture taking. It seemed that their teacher sent them hunting tourists :-)
Each of those groups had a list of 10 questions to be answered. When the 4th group tried to catch me, I just said “no interview please” :-)
On 1300 meters it is a nice climate up here and the night will be chilly. The people are very friendly and mostly belong to the ethnic group of Karo. Joey Harlim (also Karo) whom I met in a small wooden shack restaurant told me about doctors from Europe coming here to learn about their bone healing competencies/ traditions.
not much to see on the Sibayak volcano
Berastagi has some cute places
aha, somewhere up there I had been
The Raymond Cafe where I met Joey...and the British guy. No other thing to explore in Berastagi.
And guess what: it rained again.
Joey wants to travel Europe with his wife by car in about 2 years.
30th of November - Berastagi to Lake Toba, Tuk Tuk, ~80km
Yep, Tuk Tuk is really the name of this nest on Samosir Island in the middle of the volcano crater Lake Toba.
Closer to the Lake Toba the landscape becomes really beautiful, nice forests/ jungle changing with coffee, tea, vegetable and cabbage plantations. Beautiful views on the Lake Toba. And somehow the landscape, buildings and people reminded me of a mix of South America, Mexico and Indian culture.
At the passengers ferry terminal in Prapat I met some nice guys and we made some fun + one of the guys picked his motorbike from home and guided me to the roll-on ferry terminal in the next bay.
Tuk Tuk is a quiet, beautiful tourist place but without many tourists now. The high season will come by end of December.
Closer to Lake Toba it gets cleaner and neat
The island Samosir in Lake Toba, a mega volcano crater
The fun guys...always seems there is not much to do. But they are happy people (at least the outer impression)
He picked his motorbike at home and brought me to the car ferry terminal
somehow the passenger ferry looks like a minivan..?!
they worked hard to get this bus on board
Tuk Tuk on Samosir is a sweet nest
Batak traditional Music & Dance in my hotel. Batak is the ethnic group which forms the population of Lake Toba.
